Wooden studs: These wooden boards are the framework of the wall. You will need still thicker boards (called plates) for the top and bottom of the wall, and then thinner boards (called studs) for the vertical supports.
Gypsum boards: Large, flat panels which actually are the wall. The boards are made with a chalk obviously core with drywall paper on top.
Drywall screws: These screws have thicker threads so they can grip the wood well and have dimples or depressions in the head that allows the screws to fit snugly without tearing the drywall.
Joint tape: This is a paper tape to cover the joints where the boards come together.
Joint compound ("mud"): This is a paste like material that resembles plaster. It is applied to help smooth over the tape and screws to make everything level and flush.
Tools needed: a tape measure, a level (very important), a saw (for the wood and drywall), a drill, a utility knife, and at least two or three trowels for plastering.
Step 1: Planning and MeasuringDetermine where you want your wall to be. Draw a chalk line on the floor as your reference line. Use a level to extend this line vertically up to the ceiling. This ensures your wall won't tilt.
Step 2: Build the Frame ("Skeleton")
Cut the top and bottom plates to the same length as your new wall.
Position the bottom plate precisely on the chalk line on the floor.
Fasten the top plate to the ceiling, ensuring it is level directly above the bottom plate. This can be a little tricky, so you may want assistance holding one end, while you level it.
Use your measurements of two 914 mm (36-in.) vertical studs to cut your spacing. Lay your first stud at each end, then finish spacing evenly at 610 mm (24 in.) apart. Standard spacing is 610 mm (24 in.) on center to allow sheets of drywall to properly fit on a wall surface. Another screw must be placed at the top and bottom of your vertical studs.
You have now created a wooden framed structure that acts as the support structure of your wall.
Step 3: Hang the Drywall
Once the frame is built, it's time to apply the "skin."
Measure and cut the gypsum board to size. Score the drywall paper with a utility knife and snap the board along the cut line.
Have a friend help you lift the boards-they're large and heavy.
Place a drywall sheet against the frame and secure it with drywall screws. Drive the screws so the heads are slightly below the surface, but don't break the paper. Space the screws about 16 inches apart.
Complete the installation on one side of the wall first.
Important tip: Stagger the joints! Don't align all vertical joints. If you're using multiple boards, offset the joints of the next sheet (like bricks in a wall). This makes the wall stronger and easier to finish later.
Step 4: Apply Joint Tape and Mud
This step makes the wall look seamless.
First coat: Apply a layer of joint compound ("mud") to all joints. Press the joint tape into the wet mud so it's centered in the seam. Smooth it with a trowel, squeezing out excess mud and air bubbles. Also, cover each screw head with a thin layer of mud. Let dry completely (usually overnight).
Second coat: Apply a wider, smoother coat of mud evenly over the taped seams and screws. You want to feather the edges into the wall as best as you can, and allow it to dry again.
Third coat (if needed): Apply a thin final coat over the entire area to get it absolutely smooth. Once dry, lightly sand the area with sandpaper until smooth like the rest of the wall.
Step 5: Final Steps
Once you finish sanding, make sure to clean up any dust. Your brand new wall is now ready for primer and paint! The primer will help seal the drywall and the mud, then you can paint it your color of choice.
That's all! Building your partition wall is mostly about patience (especially the taping and mudding process)-not complicated techniques. Just take your time, measure, and always use a level. Your new room will be ready in no time.