1. Never Stack Boards Directly on the Ground
Many assume any flat surface is good enough for stacking. Though concrete floors look level, they hold hidden moisture. Fiber cement boards are water-resistant, but they cannot endure long-term ground contact and moisture absorption. The most obvious result is edge swelling, warping, and total waste of the bottom boards.
Proper storage method:
Elevate the stack on wooden pallets, with a minimum clearance of 10 centimeters above the ground. Always use flat, sound pallets - avoid worn-out lumber with bent or protruding nails. Align all four edges of the boards perfectly with no overhang. Unsupported overhanging sections will gradually sag and deform under the boards' own weight over time.
Another important detail that many people overlook is the height of stacks. Some crews will pile up between 100–200 boards on top of each other in order to save space and do not calculate how much pressure is imposed on the bottom board(s). A board can weigh anywhere from 10–20kg, so if you are stacking 100 boards, you are already exceeding 1 tonne of weight at a minimum. Even level 1 high density fibre cement boards have structural limits, and if you add too much weight, your bottom boards will develop internal cracks that will not be visible until the boards are installed on walls. It is advisable not to stack more than 80 sheets of materials in a stack or to follow the original factory height guidelines for packaging of the boards.
2. Proper Handling Requires Technique, Not Raw Strength
Construction sites constantly remind workers to "handle with care and avoid impacts." However, fiber cement boards are inherently brittle, and simple caution is not enough to prevent damage.
When two workers lift one board together, if one releases their grip late, the other bears the full load alone. This instantly twists the board and cracks the corners. A more frequent issue is vertical carrying: longer boards drag along the ground, grinding down and chipping the bottom corners.
Standard handling procedure:
Use suction cup lifting handles. Attach two suction cups slightly above the board's center point, with one worker holding each handle. Keep the board fully upright, with the bottom edge at least 5 centimeters off the ground. Avoid sharp turns and excessive tilting at all times.
For oversized boards longer than 2.4 meters, use a dedicated transport dolly. Special upright panel dollies secure boards firmly to the frame with a controlled tilt angle, letting one worker safely move 10 to 20 boards at a time.
Many treat open outdoor yards the same as enclosed warehouses, believing a simple tarp cover provides full protection. Yet after rainfall, removing the tarp reveals trapped condensation with no way to escape. This leaves a white frosty residue across the board surface - not mold, but alkali efflorescence. While it does not compromise structural integrity, it severely ruins paint adhesion for later finishing work.
Indoor dry storage is the best option available. If an outdoor storage space must be used, do not cover the entire stack with a completely sealed tarp. To assist with ventilation, support the tarp to allow for full cross-ventilation on all sides. Place wooden spacers (or similar) between layers of boards for a consistent airflow. Ensure that the ground under the item being stored is properly sloped so that any rainwater will flow away from the stacked items and NOT pool or flow back into the stacked area.
One easily missed rule: do not mix different production batches. Boards from separate runs often have minor thickness variations of just a few tenths of a millimeter. Workers will not notice these tiny differences during handling, yet they create obvious uneven surfaces once installed on walls. Always stack boards by individual batch, and clearly label each pile with production date and batch number.